Sfakia is the largest administrative region in West Crete, but since most of it consists of mountains it is thinly populated. A big attraction of the region is its still unspoilt nature: quiet beaches and coves, wild gorges, high mountains, rich plant life (especially in the spring). The small villages and their inhabitants also contribute greatly to the charms of Sfakia: the Sfakiotes are still resolutely traditional, independent and proud to be so. You will find them to be friendly and helpful but also quite reserved, as mountain people often are.

The coast
The coastal road heading towards the East passes through a number of pretty villages and near some nice beaches - among them, Frangokastello and Rodakino -, eventually getting to Plakias and central Crete.

Anopolis
The only road heading west climbs up in hairpins towards the village of Anopolis - the heart of the Sfakia region - situated on a plateau 600-800 metres above the sea at the foot of the White Mountains. The area has hardly been discovered by tourists although there is plenty to see and explore.

Askifou
Driving up the main road leading to the North coast eventually takes you to another plateau, surrounded by mountains, the plateau of Askifou. This is also where the path leading to the village of Imbros and the Imbros gorge starts.

Visiting places by boat

The regular boat service from Hora Sfakion to Loutro, Agia Roumeli and further away to Sougia and Paleohora is a very beautiful and practical way to explore the region. Bear in mind that there is only one boat a day to Sougia and Paleohora (in the afternoon) and that you will not be able to return to Hora Sfakion the same day. For day trips there are plenty of boats to Loutro and Agia Roumeli.

Loutro
The picturesque village of Loutro is only half an hour away by boat from Hora Sfakion. It is nestled in a beautiful cove with crystal clear waters. The peninsula nearby has a ruined castle as well as a number of ruins dating back to Roman times.
For more info go to creteisland.gr

Agia Roumeli
Famous (or infamous) as the village where you arrive after crossing the gorge of Samaria, Agia Roumeli has the ill-deserved reputation of being only a transit station for walkers who have just "done" the gorge. It is true that it does get rather crowded by midday but as soon as you leave the centre of the village it is very quiet, the scenery is beautiful and the beach to the East of the village is almost deserted. You can even clean off the salt by having a dip in the Samaria river where it runs into the sea, although you will not find much water in the summer.
If you want to walk a little you can walk up to the Old Agia Roumeli and the entrance of the Samaria National Park. From there, another half hour's walking will take you to the "Iron Gates", the famous very narrow part of the Samaria gorge. You can also keep going - it gets more spectacular - until you feel like turning back.

You can see a lot more photos of the area at www.photo.west-crete.com

Walks

The region is a walker's paradise with walks to suit everybody's taste and abilities, from easy coastal walks to very demanding hikes in the mountains or in little known gorges.
You can get good information (as well as route descriptions) on walking in Crete and in the Sfakia region at west-crete.com and sfakia-crete.com
We also recommend the "Western Crete" book by Jonnie Godfrey and Elizabeth Karslake (Sunflower Books, ISBN 1-85691-095-4) which has some good descriptions of walks.

Some of the better known walks in the Sfakia area

The gorge of Samaria is by far the most famous and the most crowded of all the gorges. There are plenty of organised tours available and it is also easy (if a little long) and safe to walk on your own.

The Imbros gorge (ending near Hora Sfakion) can get pretty crowded in the spring, before the Samaria gorge opens to the public when it is used as an alternative organised tour. The path is easy to follow.

The gorge of Aradena (not far from Loutro) is far less frequented and the walk is more difficult, with some steep passages.

The gorge of Ilingas (near Hora Sfakion) is, surprisingly, totally unknown although it is not very difficult to walk. From its northern end it is possible to get to interesting abandoned villages high above Anopolis.

Pachnes (2453 m), at the centre of the White Mountains can be reached from several directions. A place of silence in a moon landscape with great views of the whole of West Crete from the summit.

Agia Roumeli to Agios Ioannis  This walk starts along the coast, passing by the almost deserted beach of Agios Pavlos, then climbs up through a pine forest on an ancient path to the village of Agios Ioannis. Splendid views and a chance to see bearded vultures if you are lucky.

Agia Roumeli to Loutro starts on the same path but continues along and above the coast towards Loutro instead of going up.

Loutro to Hora Sfakion (or vice versa). Not a very long walk along the coast. Its main interest is the beautiful "Sweet water beach".